Pillboxes, thrills and heartache!: The Sulham Gap to Tidmarsh

The main defence line was called the "GHQ" line, and it skirted the south of London, approaching Reading along the line of the River Loddon. From Swallowfield the defensive line crossed to Foudry brook, and here it was strengthened by an anti-tank ditch. The defences followed the brook to the point where it now flows underneath the M4 motor way. From here, another anti-tank ditch was dug to the Kennet and Avon canal, but extensive gravel extraction in the area makes this feature hard to trace. Once the "stop" line reached the canal at Burghfield it followed the latter westwards, with the canal forming the anti-tank ditch to the front of it. Another ditch was dug from the canal, through the Sulham Gap, to the Thames at Pangbourne. There is a remarkable concentration of "two-pounder" pillboxes along this stretch of the defensive line. The "stop" line then continues along the bank of the Thames beyond the boundary of Berkshire.

The Sulham Valley runs north to south for some two miles from Pangbourne, on the south bank of the River Thames, to a point just south of the village of Sulham. The River Pang flows through the valley, rising to the south-west of Tidmarsh and reaching the Thames at Pangbourne. The hills on either flank of the valley reach a height of some 250 feet, and are heavily wooded above Sulham to the east. Suburbs spreading from Reading now end only half a mile or so from the edge of the Sulham heights. A General Headquarters stop line, known as GHQ Line Red, to the rear of GHQ Line Blue, providing defence in depth against an attempt by enemy forces to encircle London and advance into the Midlands, was constructed from late June 1940. GHQ Line Red ran from a junction with GHQ Line Green at Great Somerford in Wiltshire, across what is now the south of Oxfordshire to join the course of the River Thames from Abingdon to Pangbourne. Its last section, where it was routed south down the Sulham Valley to meet the River Kennet and GHQ Line Blue at Theale, was perhaps the most important strategically. In the event of an enemy advance from the west, this would undoubtedly have formed a key hinge to be forced open by the Germans for an assault against the anti-tank island of Reading, and ultimately London.

Reconnaissances of the Sulham Valley sector of GHQ Line Red were carried out by the 1st Canadian Infantry Brigade. As the River Pang did not constitute a sufficient anti-tank obstacle, it was decided to dig an artificial anti-tank ditch the length of the valley, and to prepare the sector against attack in particular by enemy armour. Twenty-four 2pdr. anti-tank gun emplacements were built between Pangbourne and Theale, as well as five shell-proof infantry pillboxes. Of these, ten emplacements

and a pillbox lie within the study defence area.

The anti-tank ditch had certainly been begun by the first week in July 1940, because a farmer wrote a letter on the 4th July to the Berkshire County War Agricultural Executive Committee complaining that a ditch '800 yards long and 55 feet across' had been cut through her small farm rendering it 'practically

unusable'. She had tried to have the line moved further to the east, but without success.

Later, it was decided to deepen the anti-tank ditch and flatten the spoil heaps to a height of no more than two feet. By mid August, the defence works in the Sulham Valley were either finished or well in hand, and, by mid-December, the eastern part of GHQ Line Red is recorded as completed.

This report was taken in two visits in what proved to be brief excursions out! The first day was a mixed bag of Type 28 twins which all were graffiti covered and dank. The second visit out was a much more pleasant affair but the Type 28's were occasionally sealed. It wasn't until i has almost got to Tidmarsh that the pillboxes were sufficiently off the beaten track to be let open and utilised as cattle feed areas. There is a small gap in the line of pillboxes that i failed to pick up and will get out at some point to complete. Later in the report i should be able to add the type 28 which is sat over the other side of the A33 and in a field running alongside the M4.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005732

On hill overlooking Pincents Lane. Sat at the end of what would have been the locality of the AT Ditch. On GE there is still the faint trace of the in-filled ditch.

Evidence of an attempt to destroy the pillbox.

Twin LMG Embrasures.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005731

On hill overlooking Pincents Lane and Nunhide Lane.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28A): S0016663

A set of Twin 28's which back onto each other. East of Nunhide Farm.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005727

At edge of woodland, to E of Nunhide Lane, NE of Nunhide Farm.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/24): S0005723

By footpath W of Nunhide Lane.

Type 24 infantry pillbox with strengthened walls.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005726

At the edge of Beal's Copse, on the hillside. Very heavily damaged due to being hit be HE shells. Hole in roof and heavily damaged around the gun embrasures.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005722

On W edge of Nunhide Lane. Heavily buried to the point that you can walk straight onto the roof from the road. Located in a small copse of trees by the side of Nunhide Lane. The main entrance to the pillbox would have been roadside but this is buried.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005721

Type 28A twin embrasure 2pdr. anti-tank pillbox, not completed, and concrete base only extant. The blue dot marks the location.

The only extent part of the base i could dig out and expose.

The point where the AT Ditch would originally have been. The clear indication of the AT ditch is still seen on GE as disturbed earth.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/24): S0005725

On embankment above Nunhide Lane, N of Nunhide Farm.

Type 24 infantry pillbox with strengthened walls

[Original defence site number - 382].

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005719

Large, square anti-tank gun emplacement with two main embrasures (now blocked) facing NNW and SSW respectively. Entrance on E side also blocked. Access possible - some 200 metres from footpath.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005720

On the West side of Nunhide Lane.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005718

On the West bank of Sulham Brook, West of Sulham Farm.

There are some substantial remains of the two roadblocks that stood within the defence area. Two anti-tank pimples ('dragon's teeth') lie by the side of the lane at the sharp corner south of Oaklands Farm, and nearer to the farm, where the anti-tank ditch re-crossed the lane, there are four massive anti-tank

cylinders standing six feet high. South of Sulham, at a point where air photographs show there was a gap in the anti-tank ditch, at least two steel vertical posts set in concrete survive.

ANTI TANK PIMPLE: S0005716

On the corner of Sulham Hill, South of Oaklands Farm. Two anti-tank 'pimples' at point where anti-tank ditch met the sharp corner of the lane.

ANTI TANK CYLINDER: S0002684

On the East side of the lane just South of Oaklands Farm.

Four massive cylindrical obstacles, formed from sections of drainage pipe, with additional concrete conical tops. Diameter - 5ft. Height, with tops - 6ft. At least 7 cylinders plotted from air photograph. The others are buried in the bushes. Part of an original roadblock on Tidmarsh Lane.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0002685

In field on W side of lane S of Oaklands Farm. Concrete anti-tank gun emplacement. Type 28A twin embrasure 2pdr pillbox guarding roadblock. The pillbox was disguised as a house, being covered in wood and chicken wire and painted brown with white windows. It is shown as 'unroofed'. The two main embrasures are facing SE and NE respectively. Badly overgrown. No access - in private field.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0002681

E of the River Pang, on footpath running W-E from Sulham Hill to Sulham Lane, N of Oaklands Farm. Type 28A twin embrasure anti-tank pillbox, built to the W of the anti-tank ditch. Massive square anti-tank gun emplacement with two large embrasures for 2pdr. anti-tank gun, facing E and N respectively. The embrasures are blocked in with brick, but the entrance (on the S side) is open. The corners of the emplacement are 'cut off' and the roof edge chamfered. The W and S faces show evidence of having been fired at with a high velocity weapon. Inside, there is a dividing wall creating a side chamber with two embrasures for LMG fire. In addition, there are two LMG embrasures in the main body of the emplacement. Used as cattle shelter. Public access, and interior - next to footpath.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28A): S0002682

E of the River Pang, on footpath running W-E from Sulham Hill to Sulham Lane, by the side of a small stream, N of Oaklands Farm. Rectangular anti-tank gun emplacement set back to back at a slight angle with another. Shuttered with horizontal wooden planks, but vertical around the doorway (on S side). Corrugated iron-shuttered roof (internal). Stands on three feet thick plinth (ground marshy by stream). Cut-off corners and chamfered roof edge. One main embrasure (blocked). Internal LMG side chamber with two embrasures, one blocked. Further LMG embrasure in E face. Damage to a corner revealing reinforcing bars, possibly occasioned by being used as a target for shell fire. Used as a cattle shelter. Faces N. Public access, including interior - close to footpath.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0002683

E of the River Pang, in woodland N of footpath running W-E from Sulham Hill to Sulham Lane, N of Oaklands Farm. Concrete anti-tank gun emplacement. This gun emplacement has been fired against at some time by a high velocity armour piecing weapon as it is penetrated at one point, and the concrete cratered [tests 1944/45?]. A twin embrasure type 28A pillbox firing N and S. Large, square anti-tank gun emplacement with two main embrasures facing N and W respectively (now blocked with bricks). Cut off corners and chamfered roof edge. The number '3691' is painted at the entrance. Two side chambers with dividing walls and LMG embrasures. Evidence in W and E walls of damage by shell-fire practice. Used as an animal shelter. Across field from footpath, but public access, including interior, seems reasonable.

PILLBOX (TYPE FW3/28 TWIN): S0005714

Near Bere Leys, in a meadow. Two bases of type 28A twin embrasure pillboxes that were never completed. These were to the W of the anti-tank ditch. 04/08/1943 Large rectangular structure plotted from air photograph.